The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand is one of feast and famine, dominance and disaster.

It might surprise many to learn that Pinot Noir was, in fact, the dominant red grape variety in New Zealand from the 1880s through the early part of the 20th century. Of course, the wine industry at that time was tiny, little more than a cottage enterprise of farmers growing grapes alongside other crops and livestock.

As part of the Central Otago Spring Release event, the four wine writers present—Jane Skilton MW, John Saker, Dave Brookes and myself—were treated to a masterclass with four of the region’s pre-eminent winemakers.

Blair Walter of Felton Road, Rudi Bauer of Quartz Reef, Claire Mulholland of Burn Cottage and Sarah-Kate Dineen of Maude Wines each presented two vintages of one of the their top pinot noirs, spaced 10 years apart to provide the context for conversation about where the region came from, how it has changed/matured and where it is going.